TMB Stage 11: Refuge de la Flégère to Les Houches via Le Brévent

Le Brévent (2,525 m) is not the highest point on the Tour du Mont-Blanc. It is not the most remote, nor the most isolated. But it is the summit that offers the most complete view of what you have just hiked. The entire massif unfolds across the valley, from the Aiguilles de Chamonix to the Dôme du Goûter, with Mont-Blanc at dead center. After ten days of hiking around this mountain, the perspective is head-on, barely 8 km away as the crow flies.

Mountain hiking guides, we see this last stage as the final meaningful climb of the circuit. The ascent is frank and steep, the panorama pays back every meter of effort, and the descent to Les Houches (1,500 m of elevation loss, the longest on the TMB) gives your knees one last workout. In this article, we walk through the full route, the stop at Refuge de Bellachat, options for shortening the day, and a few stories about the first travelers who discovered Chamonix.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 15.5 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 659 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1540 m

Stage 11 at a Glance

The defining moment: reaching the summit of Le Brévent. Mont-Blanc fills the view, 8 km away as the crow flies. Below, the Chamonix valley draws a green ribbon 1,500 m lower. This is where Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard, in the 18th century, studied Mont-Blanc through a telescope to plan the route for the first ascent.

From La Flégère to Planpraz: Continuing the Grand Balcon Sud

You leave the Refuge de la Flégère (1,877 m) heading southwest, in the opposite direction from the trail you hiked the day before from Trè-le-Champ. The path crosses the Charlanon alpage along the hillside, with the Mont-Blanc massif in constant view to your left. You pass beneath the slopes of l'Index (2,595 m), then the route curves around several hollows, including the Combe de la Parsa, alternating between larch groves, rock slabs, and open pasture.

Roughly 1h30 after setting out, you reach Planpraz (2,000 m), the intermediate station of the Le Brévent cable car. There is a refreshment stand and restrooms. This is a decision point: you can ride the cable car down to Chamonix (if the weather is poor or energy is running low), or keep hiking toward Le Brévent's summit.

Along this stretch you will meet day hikers who rode up from Chamonix by cable car, considerably more numerous than on the earlier TMB sections. After the relative solitude of the Swiss Val Ferret or the pastures of Alp Bovine, the change in crowd density is unmistakable.

Le Brévent (2,525 m)

The climb from Planpraz to Le Brévent takes about 1h15. The trail passes through the Col du Brévent (2,368 m), marked by a cairn, then crosses a rocky spur equipped with two metal ladders (8 and 9 rungs) before reaching the summit (2,525 m). The passage is exposed but well secured. In rain or after a thunderstorm, the rungs and surrounding rock are slippery: exercise extra caution, and consider the cable car as an alternative. You can also ride the upper section of the cable car directly to the summit from Planpraz.

From the top, the panorama is a full 360°. To the east, the entire Mont-Blanc chain is spread out: the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m), Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m), Mont Maudit (4,465 m), Mont-Blanc (4,809 m), Dôme du Goûter (4,304 m), and Aiguille de Bionnassay (4,052 m). Below, Chamonix appears tiny. To the west, you see the Aiguilles Rouges massif, Lac Blanc (where some hikers passed the day before), and on very clear days, the Jura in the distance.

It was from Le Brévent that Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard studied Mont-Blanc to identify a route to the top. On August 8, 1786, with Jacques Balmat, he completed the first ascent. Chamonix was forever changed. The driving force had been Genevan naturalist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, who had been observing the mountain since 1760 and offered a reward to anyone who found a way up. Balmat took credit for the ascent for many years. It took the work of historian T. Graham Brown, in the 20th century, to restore Paccard's place as the true first ascensionist.

The Descent to Bellachat (2,152 m)

From the summit of Le Brévent, the trail descends first through rocky terrain, then into alpine pasture. In 1h to 1h15, you reach the Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m), set on a grassy ledge with a sweeping view over the Chamonix valley and the Glacier des Bossons directly opposite.

Refuge de Bellachat is the last place to stop before the long final descent. The guardian serves straightforward, generous meals. It is a great spot for lunch, or for spending one last night at altitude if you want to split the stage in two.

The Big Descent: Bellachat to Les Houches

This is the toughest part of the day. From Bellachat (2,152 m) to Les Houches (977 m), roughly 1,200 m of elevation loss remain over 7 km. Trekking poles are not a luxury here.

The trail leaves the refuge across a steep grassy slope, drops 300 m in tight switchbacks, then enters the Réserve naturelle de Carlaveyron around 1,800 m. The reserve was created in 1991 to protect 598 hectares of old-growth forest and wetlands. Its existence was not a certainty: a plan to extend the ski lifts toward the Montagne de Carlaveyron had been floated, before being abandoned in favor of the reserve.

The descent continues through forest (larches, then spruce) to a junction for the Parc animalier de Merlet (1,500 m), where ibex, chamois, and marmots roam in semi-freedom with Mont-Blanc as a backdrop. The park is visible from the trail; a visit adds about 1h to the day. Past Merlet, the trail joins a wider forest track. You reach the P3 parking area (1,370 m), the first road access since the refuge.

The final 400 m of descent wind through forest to the platform of the Christ-Roi statue (1,200 m), erected in 1934 at the initiative of Abbé Claude-Marie Delassiat, parish priest of Les Houches. The Arve valley opens up below. The last stretch crosses the hamlet of Le Coupeau before reaching Les Houches train station (980 m). The TMB is done.

When Chamonix Was "Discovered"

Arriving in Les Houches, you are walking a path others opened centuries ago. In June 1741, two young English aristocrats, William Windham and Richard Pococke, left Geneva with an armed escort to explore the Chamonix valley. At the time, the place was a dead end at the bottom of a mule track, virtually unknown beyond the region. Windham described the "Mer de Glace" (he coined the name) and the Chamonix needles in a letter that made waves in London. A few decades later, the writer and canon Marc-Théodore Bourrit, based in Geneva, published between 1773 and 1801 several editions describing the glaciers of Chamonix, with engravings widely circulated in European scientific and literary circles. Alpine tourism was born, and Chamonix would become its capital.

Variant: the Aiguillettes du Brévent and Les Houches

For those who do not want the TMB to end too quickly, a lesser-known variant extends the final day. From Refuge de Bellachat, instead of descending directly to Les Houches, the trail follows the ridge westward over the Aiguillette du Brévent (2,310 m) and the Pointe de Lapaz (2,313 m), then continues to the Aiguillette des Houches before descending via the Chalets de Chailloux (1,923 m) and Plan de la Cry (1,440 m). Allow 5 to 6h from Bellachat, with +200 m and -1,400 m. It is a ridge route with unbroken views of the Mont-Blanc range, away from the busy trails. It reaches Les Houches from the western side, less steep than the direct descent.

Options for Shortening the Stage

Stage 11 is long (6h30 to 8h) and the descent is demanding. Several options let you adjust:

• La Flégère cable car: ride down from La Flégère to Les Praz-de-Chamonix, then take the bus to Les Houches (removes the entire stage, useful in bad weather).
• Le Brévent cable car: ride up to Planpraz or Le Brévent, then hike down to Bellachat and Les Houches (saves 600 m of elevation gain).
• Night at Bellachat: split the stage in two. La Flégère to Bellachat (3-4h), then Bellachat to Les Houches the next morning (2h30-3h).

Accommodation in Les Houches and Nearby

• Gîtes and hotels in Les Houches (977 m): the village has plenty of accommodation options. After 11 stages, a real bed and a long shower are well deserved.
• Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m): for those who want to split the stage or enjoy one last sunset at altitude. Booking recommended (tel: 04 50 53 43 23).
• Chamonix: 8 km from Les Houches, accessible by bus or train (Mont-Blanc Express). A wider selection of accommodation and restaurants.

Practical Tips

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge de la Flégère at the start, at the Planpraz refreshment stand, at Refuge de Bellachat, and in Les Houches at the finish. The descent from Bellachat to Les Houches is long with no water source: carry at least 1.5 liters from Bellachat in summer.

Weather and Timing

The summit of Le Brévent is exposed to wind and thunderstorms. If the forecast is uncertain, try to reach the top early (summer storms typically develop in early afternoon). The descent faces southwest: in midsummer, the heat in the forest can be intense in the afternoon. Leaving La Flégère before 7:30 AM is recommended.

Difficulty

The climb to Le Brévent is sustained but technically straightforward. The descent is the real test: 1,860 m of elevation loss puts serious strain on your quads and joints. Trekking poles are essential. If your knees are giving you trouble, consider the cable car for at least part of the descent.

Getting Back to Your Starting Point

From Les Houches train station, the Mont-Blanc Express connects to Chamonix (10 min) and Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet (15 min), where TGV services run to Paris, Lyon, and Geneva. The Tramway du Mont-Blanc, departing from Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet and climbing to the Nid d'Aigle, also stops at the Col de Voza station (the one you passed on Stage 1). Local buses fill in the gaps. If your car is parked at Les Houches, the loop is closed. If you left it in Chamonix or Saint-Gervais, the train brings you back in minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 11

Can I skip the climb to Le Brévent?

Yes, by taking the cable car from Planpraz. But the summit of Le Brévent is often cited as the finest viewpoint on the TMB. Missing it means finishing the trek without the summit panorama. If your legs are up to it, hike up.

Is the 1,860 m descent really that tough?

It is the longest descent on the TMB. On your knees and joints, it is demanding, especially after ten days of hiking. Trekking poles, a steady pace, and frequent breaks make it manageable. The forest provides shade, which helps in summer.

Can you combine Stages 10 and 11?

It is doable for very fit hikers. Linking Trè-le-Champ, La Flégère, Le Brévent, and Les Houches amounts to roughly 23 km with 1,750 m of gain and 2,200 m of loss. Seven-day itineraries sometimes include it. In our TMB in 7 days, we organize this section with accumulated fatigue in mind.

What to do after the TMB?

Les Houches and Chamonix have everything you need to recover: restaurants, brewpubs, outdoor shops, and the Saint-Gervais thermal baths are a 20-minute train ride away. If you are heading home by public transit, Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet station connects to the TGV network and Geneva airport.

The Loop Is Complete

The Tour du Mont-Blanc ends in Les Houches, where it began. You set down your pack, look up at the mountain one final time, and know you have walked the full circle. Three countries, eleven stages, 170 km, roughly ten passes.

Stage 1 of the TMB, the one that took you out of Les Houches eleven days ago (or seven, or five), is the start of another circuit if the urge returns. To put this final stage in context, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article covers all 11 stages, the variants, and the full logistics. And if you want to hike the TMB in comfort with a guide who knows every pass, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood condenses the best of the circuit into one week.

You have just come from Stage 10, Trè-le-Champ to Refuge de la Flégère along the Grand Balcon Sud.

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