TMB Stage 1: Les Houches → Les Contamines, Col de Voza or Col du Tricot?

Starting from Les Houches, the Tour du Mont-Blanc doesn't look like much. A main road, silent ski lifts, and 700 metres of elevation gain before you even feel like you're in the mountains. Nothing to hint at what lies ahead.

Then, at the Col de Voza (1,653 m), everything shifts: the Aiguille de Bionnassay (4,052 m) bursts into view with its hanging glacier, the Val Montjoie opens below, and you realise this trek is not quite like the others.

The real question of this first day is the route. Classic itinerary via the Col de Voza — accessible and steady — or the variant via the Col du Tricot (2,120 m) and its Himalayan suspension bridge hanging above the Bionnassay torrent? We — the mountain guides Altimood — clearly lean towards the Tricot variant when conditions allow. It's a spectacular start, provided you have the fitness to enjoy this longer option.

In this article, we compare the two ways to begin the Tour du Mont-Blanc: the classic route via the Col de Voza, or the spectacular Col du Tricot variant.

The Classic Route via the Col de Voza

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 16.4 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 940 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 792 m

Stage 1 at a Glance

Note on stage divisions: some guides and apps split the stages differently, offering a short Stage 1 stopping at the hamlet of Bionnassay or the Refuge du Fioux (~10 km, +700 m). The itinerary described here is the full version to Les Contamines-Montjoie, the most common approach among independent walkers.

Les Houches (980 m): The True Start of the TMB

The ascent begins through the village, on the far side of the main road. The path leaves from behind the small Chapelle du Fouilly, climbs through the Résidence du Grand Balcon, passes the Maison-Neuve chairlift station (1,221 m) and reaches the Chalet de la Tuile (1,368 m) before tackling the final climb to the col.

This is a continuous ascent of around 700 metres on a sustained gradient. Muscles wake up, the landscape opens gradually onto the larch forest, and Chamonix disappears into the valley below. First day, first effort, first promise.

A tip for those arriving late or wishing to spare their knees from the start: the Mont-Blanc Tramway runs up to the Col de Voza (stop "TMB"). This option is regularly used by experienced walkers who choose to manage their energy over the full circuit.

The Col de Voza (1,653 m): The First Glacier

At the col, everything changes. The dazzling north face of the Aiguille de Bionnassay (4,052 m) and its glacier appear suddenly, framed by the Kandahar ski lifts — the resort where World Cup races take place. This contrast between winter infrastructure and wild high mountains typifies this first section of the TMB.

The col is also the starting point for the Col du Tricot variant (see below). For those continuing on the classic route: a 45-minute descent leads to the hamlet of Bionnassay (1,320 m), surrounded by old farms and a bread oven. The tarmac road through the hamlet of Le Crozat (700 metres of asphalt) then joins the Val Montjoie and Les Contamines.

A Disaster Beneath the Glacier

Walking through the Val Montjoie, it is hard to imagine that this bucolic landscape nearly vanished under a torrent of mud. In 1892, a water pocket had built up over years in a cavity beneath the Tête Rousse glacier, holding more than 200,000 cubic metres of water. The frontal vault gave way all at once, sending a flow of mud and ice towards Saint-Gervais-les-Bains below. The thermal baths — inaugurated in 1807 by notary Gontard, who had discovered a sulphur spring in the Bonnant gorge — were destroyed. Nearly 200 people perished. The establishment was rebuilt in 1914. Today, the monitoring of sub-glacial water pockets is part of the permanent surveillance system around the Tête Rousse glacier.

Les Contamines-Montjoie (1,167 m)

The village is well-equipped for TMB walkers and makes for a pleasant end to the day. Walking along the main street, you pass a beautiful baroque church built between 1758 and 1760 by Domenico Gualino de Stastegno, a master mason from the Valsesia in Piedmont. This is no coincidence: the Savoyard baroque that the TMB passes through throughout the Val Montjoie was often the work of Italian craftsmen who came to work under the Duchy of Savoy.

Variant: The Col du Tricot (2,120 m) and the Himalayan Bridge

This is the most spectacular variant of the first day, and one of the finest on the entire TMB. It adds around two hours but transforms the stage into something truly memorable.

From the Col de Voza, the path climbs towards the Hôtel de Bellevue, crosses a wooded area, and descends to the Himalayan suspension bridge above the Bionnassay torrent (1,700 m). Crossing this bridge in a strong wind with a 12 kg pack is part of the TMB experience. A steep climb through loose scree then leads to the Col du Tricot (2,120 m), where a few remnants of the walls of the old Hôtel des Comtes Nicolaï, built in 1862, still stand.

The north faces of the Aiguille de Bionnassay (4,052 m) and the Dômes de Miage (3,673 m) unfold within arm's reach. This is the first true glacial panorama of the circuit, and it is breathtaking.

• Distance :↔ 17.9 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 1357 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1227 m

The descent on the south side leads to the Chalets de Miage, then the Refuge du Truc (1,720 m), before rejoining Les Contamines via a forest path.

Along the way, the variant passes through Charousse, a hamlet that looks like an open-air alpine museum. This is where the pastoral scenes of the TV film Premier de Cordée, adapted from Roger Frison-Roche's novel, were filmed. A kilometre further on, at the Chalet de la Charme, Gilles Legrand filmed the most moving scenes of Malabar Princess in 2004, in which Jacques Villeret played a mountain farmer who was both rugged and endearing. Two productions in the same valley: the light of Charousse clearly has something special.

Tips for the Tricot variant: save this option for fine weather (the scree at the col is slippery in wet conditions), leave Les Houches early to avoid arriving in Les Contamines at nightfall, and make sure all members of the group have a solid fitness level.

Prarion Variant: For Those Who Avoid Crowds

Less well-known and almost never mentioned in TMB guidebooks, this variant follows the GRP Tour du Pays du Mont Blanc from Les Houches. The path climbs through forest, away from the lifts and the flow of walkers on the GR, to the summit of Prarion (1,967 m) with its 360° panorama over the Mont Blanc massif, the Chamonix valley and the Aravis massif. The descent then rejoins the Col de Voza, then the hamlet of Bionnassay or the Refuge du Fioux. If you want to begin your TMB without crossing half the UTMB field, this is a serious option — though it shortens the stage by stopping at Bionnassay rather than Les Contamines.

Accommodation in Les Contamines

Les Contamines-Montjoie offers several options for the night:

• Gîtes in the village: Chalet du Club Alpin (tel. +33 4 50 47 00 88), Gîte Le Pontet (tel. +33 4 50 47 04 04). Book several months in advance for July and August.
• Refuge de Nant-Borrant (1,460 m), 45 minutes from Les Contamines on the next day's route, for those who want to get a head start.
• Camping: a campsite is located in Les Contamines, useful for walkers doing the TMB in bivouac style.
• At the Col de Voza (for a shorter first stage): Village Vacances APAS and Refuge du Fioux (tel. +33 4 50 93 52 43) allow you to split the stage in two if you set off late in the day.

Practical Information

Getting to the TMB

Les Houches is directly accessible by train from the Fayet station (Mont-Blanc Express, connections from Geneva and Chamonix). If arriving by car, park at the Prarion car park in Les Houches before heading out for several days.

Water on the Route

Springs and fountains dot the route on both variants. Carry 1.5–2 litres from the start; refill points are plentiful.

Weather and Conditions

The Col de Voza (1,653 m) is exposed to wind. An insulating layer is useful even in midsummer. The Col du Tricot variant can be snow-covered in June and after the first autumn storms. If conditions are in doubt, the classic route is beautiful in its own right.

Dogs on the TMB

The Val Montjoie falls partly within the Contamines-Montjoie Nature Reserve. Dogs are tolerated on a lead.

FAQ — TMB Stage 1

Col de Voza or Col du Tricot: which variant to choose?

The Col de Voza (1,653 m) is the classic marked route: accessible, well-maintained, open to all walkers in good physical shape and manageable in most reasonable weather conditions. The Col du Tricot (2,120 m) is the athletic variant: two hours longer, a Himalayan bridge to cross, unstable scree on the descent, but a glacial panorama that makes it worthwhile. If you have the legs, the confidence and fine weather, go for Tricot. Otherwise, Voza is far from a fallback choice.

Can I use the Mont-Blanc Tramway for Stage 1?

Yes, and it is a perfectly legitimate option. The Mont-Blanc Tramway runs from Saint-Gervais-le-Fayet to the Nid d'Aigle, with a stop at the "Col de Voza" station (1,653 m). This avoids the 700 metres of initial elevation gain and lets you begin the TMB directly at the first glacial panoramas. Useful if you arrive late in the day, want to spare your joints from the start, or are staying in Saint-Gervais the night before and finishing the trip at the thermal baths on your return.

How long does TMB Stage 1 take?

On the classic route via the Col de Voza, allow 5h to 6h30 of actual walking time (excluding breaks) for the 17 km between Les Houches and Les Contamines-Montjoie. On the Col du Tricot variant, allow 7h30 to 8h30. In both cases, adapt to your own pace and leave Les Houches before 8 am to arrive in Les Contamines with time to have a drink, settle in and eat in peace.

Les Houches or Chamonix: where does the TMB really start?

Both are accepted, but Les Houches (6 km down-valley from Chamonix) is the official starting point of the marked GR TMB route. Starting from Chamonix adds a stage or requires a bus or train to Les Houches. The vast majority of walkers start at Les Houches: this creates a neat complete loop with a finish at La Flégère and a return to Les Houches by cable car or on foot. If coming by car, Les Houches has long-stay parking; Saint-Gervais-le-Fayet is also a good alternative if that car park is full.

Is Les Contamines-Montjoie a good place to spend the night?

Yes, it is one of the best stops on the French section of the TMB. The village is well-equipped (gîtes, restaurants, grocery, pharmacy), the atmosphere is quieter than Chamonix, and the proximity of Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge allows for a short evening walk without a pack to stretch your legs. Note that accommodation often fills up from March onwards for July and August — book early.

What's Next on the TMB

This first stage drops you in Les Contamines-Montjoie, the starting point for Stage 2 towards the Col du Bonhomme and Les Chapieux — the most demanding day in terms of elevation gain on the classic route.

To see how all these stages fit together, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide details all 11 stages, the variants, the ideal seasons and everything you need to know before setting off.

Further Reading