Stage 6 of the TMB: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly via Grand Col Ferret

The Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) is the highest point on the classic Tour du Mont-Blanc. It is also a border, the second frontier crossing of the circuit: in a single step, you leave Italy for Switzerland, swapping the massive granite spires for the gentle, rounded pastures of the Valais. That shift in landscape, played out over just a few meters, is one of the most memorable moments on the TMB.

This stage packs a full day into one: the gradual climb from the Italian Val Ferret, the col crossing with views of the Pré-de-Bar Glacier and the Grand Combin, then the long descent through Swiss alpine meadows to La Fouly. It is also the longest stage on the TMB by distance, making it a real effort despite there being no technical difficulty.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 19.1 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 789 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1217 m

Stage 6 at a Glance

Note: this is the longest stage on the TMB by distance. The cumulative descent (close to 1,400 m / 4,600 ft) is hard on the knees. Keep your trekking poles handy, especially on the Swiss descent.

The Descent to Arnuva: Leaving the Italian Balcony

You leave Refuge Bonatti at first light, facing the Grandes Jorasses still wrapped in shadow. The trail descends toward the floor of the Italian Val Ferret through the Malatra pastures (2,056 m), then reaches the farmstead at Arnuva (1,776 m) in about 1h30. It is a steady, predictable descent through meadows dotted with gentians and rhododendrons.

Along the way, the Pré-de-Bar Glacier comes into view on the eastern flank of the valley. This glacier, flowing down from Mont Dolent (3,823 m / 12,543 ft), has retreated markedly over recent decades. Its terminus, once level with the trail, has pulled well back above. It is a sobering, plainly visible reminder of the glacial retreat unfolding across the Alps.

Mont Dolent itself deserves a mention: it is the summit where the borders of France, Italy, and Switzerland converge. A geographic tripoint at 3,823 m, invisible from the trail but symbolically present throughout this transitional stage between two countries.

Refuge Elena (2,062 m): Last Stop Before the Col

From Arnuva, the trail climbs to Refuge Elena (2,062 m), the last Italian stop. Allow about an hour of steady climbing. The refuge offers drinks and food supplies. It is the ideal spot to top off water bottles and adjust layers before the final ascent.

Above the refuge, the terrain grows increasingly rocky. Pastures give way to scree and steepening grassy slopes. The last 400 meters of elevation gain to the col are the most sustained section of the day. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may linger on the upper slopes. Nothing technical, but footwear with solid grip is appreciated.

Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m): The Tipping Point

The col is broad, grassy, and windy. You reach it after just over an hour of climbing from Refuge Elena. The reward is twofold.

On the Italian side, behind you: the entire Val Ferret unfolds below, framed by the spires of the massif. You can make out the Pré-de-Bar Glacier, Refuge Bonatti in its meadow, and further back the Col de la Seigne where you entered Italy two days earlier. The entire Italian chapter of the TMB is summed up in that backward panorama.

On the Swiss side, ahead of you: the landscape shifts dramatically. The contours soften, the colors turn greener, the slopes become rounded. The Grand Combin (4,314 m / 14,154 ft), the giant of the Valais, dominates the northeastern horizon. You pass from Italian alpine drama to Swiss calm. It is a transition that words do not fully capture and every hiker experiences in their own way.

The col is also the highest point on the classic TMB (the Col des Fours and Fenêtre d'Arpette variants go higher, but they fall outside the standard route).

The Swiss Descent: Pastures, Raccards and the Swiss Val Ferret

The Swiss-side descent is long (about 3 hours to La Fouly) but never monotonous. The trail first crosses the La Peule alp (2,090 m), where a mountain chalet sometimes serves drinks and local cheese in season.

As you descend toward the village of Ferret (1,700 m), you enter a landscape quite unlike anything you have encountered since the start of the TMB. The raccards appear along the trail: small granaries of darkened wood, raised on stilts with flat stone slabs capping each pillar, built to store grain and seeds out of reach of rodents. This is quintessential Valaisan architecture, found throughout the canton from the French-speaking Entremont valleys to the German-speaking Upper Valais. Functional and handsome, they punctuate the Swiss Val Ferret with their dark silhouettes.

Arriving at La Fouly (1,593 m)

La Fouly is a small mountain village, a cross-country ski resort in winter and a TMB waypoint in summer. After 20 kilometers of hiking, reaching this quiet hamlet is a welcome relief. You will find a small grocery, restaurants, accommodation, and a bus stop (La Fouly-Orsières line, 7 departures daily) for anyone wanting to shorten or rearrange their itinerary.

The feel is nothing like Courmayeur: no designer shops, no crowded terraces. La Fouly ticks along at mountain pace, quiet and unpretentious.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Auberge des Glaciers is the main accommodation in La Fouly for TMB hikers. Dormitories and private rooms, dinner and breakfast included. Friendly atmosphere, garden with views of the surrounding peaks.

Book ahead for July and August. Accommodation capacity in La Fouly is limited. Reserve at least a week in advance during peak season.

Alternatives:

• Gîte de La Fouly: simple lodging, well located
• Camping des Glaciers: for self-sufficient hikers, at the village entrance
• Maya-Joie: B&B rooms at Swiss prices but with guaranteed comfort

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 6

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge Bonatti (start), Refuge Elena, and La Fouly. Between Refuge Elena and La Peule (about 2 hours), there is no reliable water source. Carry a liter filled at Refuge Elena before climbing the col. The La Peule chalet sometimes offers supplies, but this is not guaranteed every day.

Weather and Timing

The Grand Col Ferret is exposed to wind and rapid weather changes. Leaving Refuge Bonatti early (before 7:30 AM) lets you cross the col by late morning, ahead of the afternoon thunderstorms common in summer. In dense fog, trail markers remain adequate but progress slows: the col is wide and the path less distinct than in the wooded sections.

The final slopes below the col can hold snow until mid-July. No crampons needed, but poles help stabilize your footing on softened snow.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 6

How long does it take to hike from Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly?

Allow 6h30 to 7h30 of actual hiking. The Swiss descent (about 3 hours) takes longer than you might expect from the map, because the trail winds extensively through the pastures. With breaks, plan on a full day of 8 to 9 hours.

Is the Grand Col Ferret dangerous?

No, not in normal summer conditions. The trail is well marked, with no technical section or exposed ground. The only real challenge is the length of the stage and the cumulative descent. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may cover the final Italian slopes, requiring some care but remaining accessible to any experienced hiker. On rainy days, the trail is muddy and slippery.

Can you shorten this stage?

Yes, in two ways. At the start: sleeping at Refuge Elena instead of Bonatti saves about 2 hours in the morning. At the finish: from the village of Ferret (1,700 m), a bus runs down to La Fouly in 10 minutes (7 departures daily). Some 7-day itineraries combine this stage with the beginning of the next one (La Fouly to Champex).

Is there a variant via the Petit Col Ferret?

The Petit Col Ferret (2,490 m) is a lesser-known option that passes closer to Mont Dolent. The route is wilder, with gullied slopes and scree passages. It is rarely used by TMB hikers because the Grand Col Ferret is more direct and offers a comparable panorama. Best suited to hikers who want solitude and are comfortable on less defined terrain.

What Comes Next on the TMB

La Fouly opens the Swiss section of the circuit. The next stage leads to Champex-Lac via a shorter, gentler day, often considered the rest stage of the TMB. Champex-Lac, nicknamed "the little Swiss Canada," offers a lake, rowboats, and an alpine botanical garden: the perfect change of pace after the cols.

To see where this stage fits in the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide details all 11 stages, variants, and logistics. If you want to experience the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood packs the best of the circuit into one week.

You have just come from Stage 5, Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti: the panorama of the Grandes Jorasses is still fresh in your memory. Ahead lies French-speaking Switzerland and its alpine cheeses.

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